Military History Tours Australia On Tour - Greece and Crete - 19 October 2009
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We are on Crete, it was the isle of doom. Here the under-resourced survivors of the actions on the Greek mainland nearly won the battle that should never have been theirs. It was the isle of doom for Hitler’s elite parachute division. After Crete they never jumped again.
During the evacuation from Greece our soldiers went by sea, mostly at night, to Crete. We did the same over the same route albeit very much more comfortably. Arriving at Canea harbour at 05:00 we found our coach and proceeded to a hotel in Canea for an early breakfast prior to our day on the battlefields.
At breakfast we met a US marine Major and a German Navy Commander who were running a NATO seminar in Suda Bay. They were sorry we were not staying at that hotel, as they would have liked to spend sone time with us tonight. Leaving the hotel we commenced our day by visiting Hill 107 where the German cemetery is located and where one gets a terrific view of the area of the battle for the Maleme airfield. We were able to put in place most units that were deployed and then went through the battle from the first parachutists arriving to the build-up of the mountain regiments. This build-up following the loss of the airfield would prove critical and influence the outcome, and so it did. We then went to 42nd Street to see the area of that wonderful charge where the 2nd/7th and the 28 (Maori) Battalions had charged into a large group of Germans and routed them. It was a success that lasted a few hours only as the Germans re-grouped and kept pressing until the order to withdraw was given.
The Greek 8th Regiment had itself conducted an excellent defence of the area east of Alikianou that ensured that the mountain regiments did not break through and move into Suda Bay. Their actions over three days mauled the Germans and when their task was completed they melted into the countryside. They and the other two Greek regiments were in fact training units, but acquitted themselves very well.
After travelling through the area of the battles around Cania, we visited the Commonwealth War Graves cemetery at Souda Bay. It does not matter how many times you visit these cemeteries, you still feel a sadness for that loss of so many young men. We conducted a small wreath laying ceremony over the grave of one of the 6 Div signallers, as Margot George’s father was a 6 Div signaller and was captured on Crete. I think most were touched by this beautiful cemetery.
The next task was to follow the withdrawal from Cania to Sfakia where the final evacuations had taken place. What a lovely little holiday venue. But on the way we were able to place the units of the rear and flank guards. The terrain was very harsh indeed and made all realise the difficulties withdrawing over this route while in contact. Luckily, the Germans had been severely hammered at Babily-Inn and were reluctant to push on.
At this stage time was getting on. We climbed back on-board our coach and headed back towards Safakia over the same road most had traversed as they snaked their way to what they thought was freedom. Out of water and food, the rear party held long enough for many to be evacuated. 2nd/7th Battalion under Lieutenant Colonel Walker had fought a wonderful fight and was now controlling the route while flank protection was being provided by the Marines and 2nd/8th Battalion.
The sad note to this gallant effort was that Colonel Walker and his battalion were left behind on the beach. He would not leave his unit and while on the barge heading out to the destroyers he heard that his men had been left on –shore. He asked to be put back. He led his men into captivity. 4.050 men were left on the beach out of the 14,500 who made the walk from Canea.
The countryside is very bleak indeed and as we travelled east we were greeted with the sight of a Venetian castle of the 13th century. A further castle is marked on the map, but we could not find it. Preveli monastery was our final call at the end of a very long day; we were all glad to see it. It is excellent and played a big part in the rescue of many an Australian, Kiwi or Brit who were helped through the monasteries escape network. Then off to Retimo for a lovely meal and a relatively early night.
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Unless otherwise noted battle and battlefield descriptions are prepared jointly by the Military History Tours Historians, as are the photographs.
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