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Military History Tours Australia On Tour - Our Other Anzac Day 28 April 2008
Today the tour split. Those taking the shorter tour headed back to Paris or on to other locations. Those on the etended tour travelled to Ieper with their allocated historian on the way they had their fourth day of battlefield touring. We travelled via Fromelles, VC Corner, the Cobber Memorial, Ploegstreert Wood and Messines. On arrival in Ieper, there was time to visit the Cloth Museum before dinner at the hotels.
Today 28 April 2008 was a very big day for the logistic support team as the tour split with half travelling to Belgium and the rest back to Paris for the journey home, or to another location. Eight coaches headed back to Paris and our hospitality vehicles had to work very hard ferrying guests to Amiens to pick-up rental cars for ongoing holiday touring, or to the train station. By evening those on the extended Our Other Anzac Day Tour were all located in our Ieper hotels for the Belgian phase of the tour. Last evening (27 April 2008) at the MegaCite in Amiens we conducted our Le Grande Bal Militarie. This Ball was attended by 800 people including our tour party, many local and government guests. We were pleased that Major General Paul Stevens, Director Australian Commonwealth War Graves, his wife and his support team were able to join us. A youth orchestra and choir from South Australia provided entertainment. At one stage we had at least 400 on the dance floor. Vocalists from the choir performed songs from the world wars. The young lady who sang the Edith Piaf numbers was given a standing ovation. The night concluded with a very moving rendition of Vera Lyn’s “We’ll Meet Again” which was well appreciated as many were leaving friends they had made on the tour to head home or elsewhere. Many have made friends on the tour and I believe they will meet again. Check the 27 April page for pictures of the Ball. Colonel Graham Fleeton
What Preceded the Conflict: Ferocious fighting in the area in late 1914 early 1915, Conduct of the Battle
The key German position was ‘The Sugar Loaf’, a fortified location (probably an old farmhouse) that anchored a salient jutting out from the German lines. “Scores of stammering German machine guns spluttered violently, drowning the noise of the cannonade. The air was thick with bullets, swishing in a flat lattice of death. There were gaps in the lines of men – wide ones, small one. The survivors spread across the front, keeping the line straight. There was no hesitation, no recoil, no dropping of the unwounded into shellholes. The bullets skimmed low, from knee to groin, riddling the tumbling bodies before they touched the ground. Still the line kept on… Hundreds were mown down in the flicker of an eyelid, like great rows of teeth knocked from a comb, but still the line went on, thinning and stretching…. Here one man alone, there two or three, walked unhurrying, with the mien of kings, rifles at the high port and tipped with that foot of steel that carries the spirit of an army – heads high, that few, to meet the death they scorned. No fury of battle but a determined calm bore them forward. Theirs was an unquestioning self sacrifice that held back nothing. They died, all but one or two who walked through the fire by a miracle…. Fifty six remained of a full thousand. It was over in five minutes.”
The 8th and 14th Brigades to the left of the 15th captured 800 metres of the enemy front line trench. They penetrated towards what they thought was a second line of trenches; in reality just a string of muddy ditches. Acts of Courage: Fromelles was a disaster and news of it was not widely promulgated. It was described as a raid in some British documents. Downing’s was the first published eye witness account and was not published until 1920. No major bravery awards were made. Chaplain Maxted, MC, was shot dead by a sniper the following day as he ministered to the dead and wounded in no mans land following the battle. He is buried in Rue de Petillon cemetery. Fraser was later commissioned in the field as an officer. He was killed at Bullecourt the following year and has no known grave. His name is on the wall at Villers Bretonneux.
The ‘Cobbers’ statue is by Peter Corlett of Melbourne and was inaugurated on 5 July 1998. It is a depiction of a 40 year old farmer from Victoria: Sergeant Simon Fraser of the 57th Battalion AIF. Whilst he was recovering wounded on the battlefield Fraser heard a wounded man shout out “Don't forget me, cobber.” Le Trou Aid Post cemetery is apparently excellent –very picturesque surrounded by a moat, only four of 351 graves are identified. Rue Petillon also contains 5th Division casualties and also casualties from earlier raids in the area. 291 Australians including some famous victims of Fromelles - Chaplain Maxted, MC and Sgt Challis a member of the 1915 Carlton AFL Premiership side.
At the end of a long, straight stretch of road on the N365 leaving Mesen (Messines) for Ploegsteert, and just before a bend, is a small road leading off left into the countryside. Less than a kilometre along that road is Prowse Point Military Cemetery on the right, and just beyond that a Commonwealth War Graves Commission signpost for Mud Corner, Toronto Avenue, Ploegsteert Wood and Rifle House cemeteries. From there the road is well signposted to Toronto Avenue Cemetery at the edge of Ploegsteert Wood.
Stand in Toronto Avenue Cemetery where the wind rocks the trees and the sunlight glints down through the rustling leaves. Try to imagine this place during the night hours of 6–7 June 1917. Then it was full of columns of Australian soldiers, thousands of men of the 3rd Division, in full battle dress laden with rifles, ammunition, packs and all the other sundry equipment of war, along with hundreds of pack animals, all struggling through the dark towards the lines from which they would have to attack the Germans shortly after first light. As they moved forward, the enemy deluged the area with gas and incendiary shells. The men of the 40th Battalion, the only all–Tasmanian infantry battalion of World War I, had to put on their gas masks (small box respirator) and wear them for hours as they laboured up towards the line. While these masks gave virtually complete immunity from gas, wearing them with a heavy pack, extra ammunition and a rifle caused laboured breathing and much physical distress. As the battalions struggled through Ploegsteert Wood, always ‘Plug Street’ to the men of the AIF, they passed transport animals collapsed on the sides of the roads, gasping piteously for air. In the wood itself things were worse. Four marked tracks lay through the wood but in the dark, and in these appalling conditions, units lost their way and confusion reigned for a time. Numbers of men were killed, wounded or gassed. The sides of the ‘Bunhill Row’ and ‘Mud Lane’ tracks were strewn with men who could move no further. Somehow, the battalions made it through and most were at the jumping off positions north of the wood by dawn for the start of the great attack of 7 June 1916. Behind them, in the wood, more than 500 men had been put out of action in this night march. Official historian, Charles Bean, recorded stories of the dogged determination to prove themselves among the men of the 40th Battalion. Private John Jeffrey, of Lower Barrington, Tasmania, became unconscious and was taken to an advanced dressing station. Recovering, he set out for the front carrying up extra machine gun magazines then promptly turned around and carried two wounded men back to a dressing station. Although wounded next day, Jeffrey refused to leave saying he could still carry ammunition. Lance Corporal Francis Cunningham, of Dunorlan, Tasmania, collapsed from gas, recovered enough to lead his section forward, collapsed again but stayed on and was wounded in the late afternoon. Private Wilfred Gale, of Elliott, Tasmania, also collapsed, recovered, and then continued to carry messages despite frequent relapses. In Ploegsteert Wood today are the remains of eroded shell craters. In Toronto Avenue Cemetery are the graves of 78 World War I soldiers, all of them Australians, two of them unidentified. They stand in three rows, most of them joined together signifying that this is a mass grave. This is the only all–Australian cemetery in Belgium and the only one on the Western Front with headstones identifying those who lie here. VC Corner Cemetery at Fromelles, France, contains more than 400 Australian burials, all of them unidentified. They lie in mass graves with no headstones. Toronto Avenue is in a low–lying area and it is difficult to keep the headstones from growing mould but, to keep up appearances, they have been successfully coated with a white substance. A wire fence has been sunk around the cemetery to deter the rabbits and other burrowing creatures. For years, few battlefield pilgrims came to Toronto but more are doing so now. On occasions, the Menin Gate buglers come to sound out those the mournful notes of the Last Post above this little group of Australians hidden in Ploegsteert Wood.
What Preceded the Conflict: Two years of planning and preparation particularly tunnelling by both British and Australian engineer Tunnelling Companies. Conduct of the Battle Battle preceded by a bombardment form 2266 guns
Results of the Battle: Strategic and tactical ground gained (the ridge) but opportunities lost in the succeeding days and weeks by a change of comd (Gough instead of Plumer) and dithering as to when to launch the next phase. Acts of Courage: Pte John Carroll 33 Bn – as soon as mines went off and barrage lifted, Carroll charged immediately. He took out two machine gun positions and rescued a wounded comrade. Awarded the VC.
Unless otherwise noted battle and battlefield descriptions are prepared jointly by the Military History Tours Historians, as are the photographs.
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